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This easy, quick recipe features crème fraîche, the luscious Northern European counterpart to sour cream. Crème fraîche is thicker and less sour than sour cream. Used sparingly, it lends a wonderful flavor to recipes without adding many more calories than sour cream. For more flavor, sprinkle the fish with chopped herbs or a little freshly grated lemon peel before roasting. If you can't get crème fraîche, use sour cream or an unsweetened, full-fat yogurt. Most full-fat yogurt will be lower in fat (~10 percent) than any full-fat sour cream (14 to 16 percent) or crème fraîche (25 to 28 percent). If you use yogurt, low-fat sour cream or low-fat crème fraîche, wait until about two minutes before the end of the roasting period to spread over the salmon to avoid the curdling associated with cooking these lower-fat dairy products. Adapted from a recipe by Cooking Life columnist Molly Wizenberg.